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Trenchless

Lining or Pipe Bursting? Trenchless Pipe Repair, Houston Guide

"Trenchless" is one word for two very different jobs. One puts a new pipe inside your old one. The other destroys your old pipe and drags a new one through the hole. They cost about the same, they both avoid a trench across the driveway, and they suit different kinds of damage. Houston contractors tend to sell whichever one they own the equipment for, so it is worth knowing the difference before someone explains it to you at your kitchen table.

Cured-in-place pipe lining

A flexible tube — felt or fiberglass — is soaked in epoxy resin, fed into the old pipe through a cleanout or a small pit, inflated with air or water so it presses against the pipe wall, and cured hard with hot water, steam or ultraviolet light. When the bladder comes out, the old pipe has a new, jointless, quarter-inch-thick pipe inside it. Roots have no seam to find. Water flows better than it did in the rough old pipe despite the slightly smaller diameter.

Lining works when:

  • The old pipe is still round enough to hold the liner against its wall
  • Joints have shifted less than about an inch
  • The pipe has no belly — a liner follows a sag exactly, and a lined belly is still a belly
  • The run can be cleaned back to bare wall by jetting first, which the resin needs in order to bond

Lining fails when the pipe has collapsed (the tube cannot get through), when an offset is too big to bridge, when there is standing water in a sag, or when the prep was skipped. Most liner failures in Houston come down to prep: a pipe that was jetted quickly and lined wet, and the liner delaminated within five years. Under a slab, lining is often the only trenchless option, and the branch connections to each fixture have to be cut back open with a robotic cutter afterward. Trenchless pipe lining Houston contractors offer for a yard lateral usually has no branches to worry about.

Pipe bursting

A steel cable is pulled through the old pipe between two pits — one at the house, one at the property line. A bursting head shaped like a cone, with a new HDPE pipe fused to its tail, is winched through. The head splits the old pipe outward into the surrounding soil and the new pipe follows in its place. The old pipe stays in the ground in pieces; the new one is a single fused run with no joints.

Bursting works when:

  • The old pipe has collapsed or is crushed and a liner cannot enter
  • The pipe is Orangeburg, which has no wall left to line against
  • You want to upsize, say from a 3-inch to a 4-inch line
  • The whole run is bad and the yard is not the problem, the driveway is

Bursting fails when there is another utility within a foot or so — the burst pushes soil sideways and can crush a water line or a gas service — and when the old pipe has a belly, because the new pipe follows the old path. Pipe bursting Houston easements allow is limited by how tightly the utilities are packed; in a 1980s subdivision where water, gas, cable and sewer share a narrow front-yard easement, the Texas811 locate sometimes rules it out.

Side by side

Lining (CIPP)Pipe burstingOpen trench
AccessOne cleanout or small pitTwo pitsFull trench
Handles collapseNoUsuallyYes
Handles offsets over 1 inNoYesYes
Handles a bellyNoNoYes
Handles OrangeburgNoYesYes
Upsizes the pipeNo (slightly smaller)YesYes
Under driveway / pool / treeBestGoodCostly
Time1 day1–2 days2–4 days
Houston cost, 50-ft lateral$6,000 – $12,000$7,000 – $15,000$4,000 – $12,000

Typical ranges, not a quote.

The Houston-specific part

Trenchless is worth its premium when the trench is what would cost you. A stamped-concrete driveway in Cinco Ranch is $6,000–$10,000 to replace. A pool deck is more. A 70-year-old live oak in Braeswood or Bellaire will not survive a trench through its roots, and it is worth more than the house payment. Those are lining or bursting jobs and the price difference is a bargain.

On a plain front yard with the lateral three feet down in St. Augustine grass — most of Houston — open trench is cheaper and just as permanent, and a trenchless quote is paying for equipment you do not need. A straight contractor will tell you so.

The other local wrinkle is the slab. Under a Houston slab, trenchless means lining, and its competitors are a tunnel and an overhead reroute rather than a trench. The under-slab page covers that three-way decision.

Questions worth asking any trenchless contractor

  1. Can I see the camera footage you based this on, and where is the footage counter at the problem?
  2. Is there a belly? If yes, why are you lining it?
  3. What was the pipe cleaned with before lining, and will you camera it after cleaning and before the liner goes in?
  4. How are branch lines being reinstated?
  5. What are the pits going through, and who restores that?
  6. What is the permit number? Trenchless work is usually treated as a replacement under the plumbing code — check with the City of Houston permit office. A contractor who says trenchless never needs a permit is not one who should be under your slab.

The trenchless sewer repair page has more on both methods, and the pricing page puts them next to open trench for the same run.

What a lining day looks like

A typical yard lining job runs on one day, and the order is almost always the same.

  1. Jet the pipe. High-pressure water scours the old line back to bare wall. Roots, grease and scale come out.
  2. Camera again. The clean pipe is checked so everyone can see what the liner will sit against.
  3. Measure and wet out. The tube is cut to length and soaked in resin on site, usually on a table next to the truck.
  4. Install. The tube goes in through the cleanout or a small pit and is pushed tight against the old pipe with air or water.
  5. Cure. Hot water, steam or UV light hardens the resin. This takes from under an hour to a few hours.
  6. Final camera. The new pipe is recorded from end to end. You should get that recording.

The drains are usually out of service for most of the day. By evening the house is back on the new pipe.

What a bursting day looks like

Bursting takes a little longer because of the pits. One pit is dug at the house and one near the property line, each about the size of a doormat and as deep as the pipe. The cable goes through the old line, the new HDPE pipe is fused into one length on the lawn, and the bursting head pulls it through. The new pipe is connected at both ends, the city inspects the connections, and the pits are filled. Plan on one to two days.

How long each one lasts

Manufacturers rate cured-in-place liners at about 50 years. HDPE pipe left by bursting is a solid, fused pipe with no joints, and like PVC it does not rust. In both cases the install matters more than the material. A liner put into a dirty pipe can come loose. A burst pipe pulled through a sag will keep the sag. Ask how each of those risks is handled before work starts.

What to keep after the job

Keep the before and after recordings, the permit number, the invoice that lists the method and the footage, and any warranty terms in writing. If you sell the house, the next buyer's inspector will ask for them.

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